Sometimes I'll lightly tap on the rivet with a small drive pin punch on my small anvil or heavy steel plate. Check them with an ohmmeter for verifying there's no break in the track. I clean the resistance track with alcohol and then dry them. Applying some Brasso metal polish with a Q-tip does a good job cleaning them up.rinsed with water, then re-seated onto the resistance wafer. The silver-plated wiper contact ring, which is removable from the resistance wafer on these CTS 24mm size pots have shown a lot more oxidation than this particular pot. I've found these Erem 71AE 45-deg flush-cutting diagonal cutters work excellent for slipping in and prying open the cover of potentiometers, as seen with the four tabs pried open. Once I get the pot unsoldered and removed, I disassemble it for cleaning and lubrication: I may have one size tucked away someplace, but not being used on this project. I don't have a set of those anti-wicking tweezers to aid in that. And, inserted, wrapped around the solder lug, sometimes several on a given terminal, that are stranded, and leaving the challenge of desoldering all of that without having the insulation of the wires shrivel up. I'm just about thru with the top panel controls.removing the wiring carefully, as so much of it is in the 26-28AWG, some stranded (including tiny single-conductor shielded cable wires), most are solid core. I'll have to deal with that clap-trap kluge later. This added connector has a poorly formed L-pad attenuator off of the speaker connector, wired on the XLR as a Line Level Output, then also shows up on the top panel as a Line Level output (in parallel with the XLR connector). No longer round connectors, but D3M style. It snakes its' way out to the added XLR male connector, next to the XLR Speaker connector. While removing the wires from the top panel pots (one pot at a time), I saw that odd-ball insulated phone jack that someone installed below where the Vox emblem is normally located. That cheezy metal plate that's screwed onto the back panel covers that botch job, though only three of four screw holes engage wood. On the rear panel, where the original round XLR speaker connector was located, someone really did a botch job with a jig saw to enlarge the area for two XLR's. All but one of the corner guards are broken, and I ordered a replacement set of those. The cabinet is not in the greatest condition. I don't have any inserts as Vox used on the outside surface as they added to the storage hole for the thumbscrew. I'll have to locate that position, drill and install the 1/4-20 T-nut. There are probably photos of the stand clamp out there on line.I see where it should be, but on this cabinet, there never has been the one centered to engage the pan of the reverb tank. The second one located in the center of the bottom panel is for the thumbscrew that held the metal bracket that secured the head to the roller speaker stand. One is for the original shipping reverb lock bolt that secured the tank during shipment from the factory, which was to be removed by the dealer during inspection/setup. There are two holes on the bottom of the head cabinet.
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